Thursday, December 19, 2013

Post Nasal Drip

When I first moved to Vermont I remember skiing up in to Smuggler's Notch and seeing the Quartz Crack Face adorned with icicles and capped by some of the most massive roofs around. I immediately pictured a mixed line weaving through the roofs and connecting icicles. A couple of weeks ago, Peter Doucette and I climbed the classic Snotcicle route on the right side of the face and I dry tooled out left from the top of the ice, hanging in order to place a pin and find some gear in the shattered rock. That day we rapped after the traverse and returned yesterday to finish it up. We climbed three pitches out and left from the top of the Snotcicle with some of the most wildly positioned mixed climbing I've done. We called the route "Post Nasal Drip" (M7 WI4+).

Post Nasal Drip with the belays marked. 

 Peter leading the Snotcicle on the first attempt. 

Me starting the pitch 2 traverse on the first attempt. 

Me sending pitch 2 on our 2nd attempt. 

Peter following pitch 2. 

Peter latching the ice on pitch 3. 

Pitch 3

Peter at the crux move of pitch 3. Tourqeing in the crack proved to be especially awkward so we both utilized  a tiny edge which locked off on to reach up into the corner. Neither of us could believe that the hook stayed in place!

Me leading the very Scottish final pitch with amazing position above the roof.

Going for the top-out turf shot on the last pitch. 

Peter following the last pitch. (Check out the ropes hanging in space below!)

 Pretty cool spot to belay on the final pitch!

Wednesday, October 16, 2013


From inside the soft yellow light of our cook tent the droning sound amplifies, an invisible missile, its target unknown. I rush to stick my head outside the window of the tent just in time to witness this granite missile culminate in a horrifying impact of stone on stone complete with a 30 ft.  cloud of rock dust. From our camp, tucked between the coarse boulders, below the west face of Seerdengpu I watch as the dust cloud recedes from the midst of the first pitch of our intended line up the northwest buttress. Yesterday in an acclimatization foray on the same line we had nearly been struck twice with similar rockfall. A contemplative silence looms over the camp. It is time to change plans again.

This wouldn’t be the first time our plan had changed this season or doubt about our objectives had filled my head. The whole year we had planned, trained and prepared for a trip to the Trango Valley to attempt a new line on Uli Biaho. Then in April I was diagnosed with an inguinal hernia and had surgery to repair it. For the next several weeks I could barely put on my own socks let alone prepare for an expedition to the Karakorum. With time I healed though and as mid June arrived I was feeling stronger and more confident with each day. Then the unthinkable happened in Pakistan. One the evening of June 22, a group of Taliban walked into the Diamar basecamp below Nanga Parbat and killed 12 climbers. This horrible incident rocked the community of climbers who had been to Pakistan and had experienced nothing but warmth and hospitality. For me it was exactly what I had always told my friends and family wouldn’t happen, “it’s not like the Taliban are going to hike for days into your basecamp,” I would say.

The West Face of Seerdengpu (left) seen from the valley.

Trying to tell the locals where we wanted our basecamp. Communication was very difficult with almost no one speaking english.

Keita Kanehara of Japan bouldering during a short break in 12 day stretch of bad weather.

The attack at Nanga Parbat scared me but more impactful, it terrified my family. My family had always been 100% supportive of my climbing and now, despite how subtly they might would express their opinions, the vibe just didn’t feel right. We quickly pulled together a plan B to travel to the Siguniang National Park in China. The west face of Seerdengpu was an appealing objective and Pat had already been to the area twice. Tickets were bought and by August we were on a plane to China.

As I watched the frighteningly large dust plume fade into the afternoon light, I felt our psyche for tomorrow’s planned attempt begin to wane. Were we over-reacting? We couldn’t really tell where the rockfall was coming from. Would we be reasonably safe if we moved fast in the early morning when there seemed to be less rockfall? Our chosen line followed several amazing splitters in perfect granite to more questionable terrain up high. Would the lack of snow and ice create dangerously loose ledge systems up high? The questions cycled through my head. As we considered other, less threatened lines, it struck us both as ironic that we had bailed on our Pakistan plans only to attempt an objective that seemed much likelier to kill us with rockfall then our chances of encountering the Taliban would have been in Pakistan.

Pat following one of the beautiful granite crack pitches on our first attempt.

Pat leading flakey pitch on our second attempt on the face. 
Pat approaching the wall through the early morning fog. The fog in the valley was amazing, flooding the landscape in minutes and then disappearing just as quickly.

The rest of the trip was wrought with unsettled weather and just plain bad luck. .  One day we climbed 1600’ up through a mix of crystal-laced cracks and run-out 5.10 slab climbing only to be hammered that night by a lightening storm that was the first of 12 straight days and nights of rain. We descended to a guesthouse in the valley below passing the time helping the family there harvest potatoes and occasionally getting in some bouldering between rain storms.

A view from the approach gully on the final line we attempted. 

Despite continued snow and rain we returned to basecamp as much for a change of scenery than anything else. As we dug out the tents from under heavy wet snow we discovered that we had had a visitor. An unknown creature had chewed through the mesh vent on our single wall tent and stolen all seven pairs of socks we had left in the tent. Amazingly the now well-insulated creature had not been interested in anything else.  Now with three increasingly smelly socks between the two of us, we considered our options. When the weather finally cleared we found our previous line looking more like a black diamond ski run then the rock buttress we had previously tried. One final attempt on yet a third line on the face ended before it really started with Pat throwing up as an apparent result of food poisoning.  Shortly after we broke down our camp for the last time, descending into the valley below under crushing loads.

The third member of our team. 

Failure in my climbing is not a new experience. I’ve found that as my skills and passion have grown and I push myself harder in each aspect of this sport I fail more than I succeed. I know this means that I am trying as hard as I can, unsatisfied with having it any other way. This time though conditions, health, and just plain bad luck prevented us from ever really got a chance to fail, from retreating knowing that you had given it everything you had.   

Now, home in Vermont, I look up from my computer screen to the heart of the Green Mountains sprawled out before me in an orange, yellow and red technicolor. I must admit that failure has gnawed at me since returning home. Questions ripple near the surface of my conscious mind, “is it all worth it?” “If we had done this or that maybe we would have sent…” I know better than to be sucked in by these thoughts but nonetheless they are there. I know that each experience, successful or not, offers lessons learned and experiences not otherwise had. People say not to stress the summit, to “appreciate the journey,” or something about each failure furthering personal growth.  I know these things to be true but I’ve found it hard to swallow this time.

Despite all the factors that can conspire against you, I know I’ll return to the mountains. I’ve come to love the process of expeditions, the intense excitement and drive leading up to departure as I push myself harder in the weight room, the jaw dropping grandeur of seeing the objective in-person for the first time, the nervous excitement that keeps me awake the night before an attempt.  As the days pass since returning from China my thoughts slowly shift from any frustrations about the trip to thoughts and ideas for the next adventure that I can’t wait to begin.

I'd like to sincerely thank the support of the American Alpine Club's Lyman-Spitzer Award committee for their support of our expedition despite our last minute change in destination. 

Brewing up amongst the boulders below Seerdengpu.

Approaching the wall early in the trip. Notice the complete lack of snow as compared to later in the trip!

Saturday, February 9, 2013

Winter 2013

Winter always seems to sneak up on me and then fade to spring as quickly as it came. An early December spent on warm sandstone in the Red River Gorge fades to chilly return to Vermont. A seemingly annual vow to spend more winter days in Rumney ends after one freezing day bouldering on a rope at a windy Waimea. Soon snow is flying and I'm packing late at night for an early start, pulling out the dusty ice tools, still dulled from last year's last day out along crampons, specter hooks, and the other arsenal of gear that comes out for mixed adventures. 

Despite my late fall/early winter yearnings for more rock climbing, my winter psyche inevitably surfaces and then I can't get enough. I've had some awesome days out this winter with some great friends both old and new alike. I hope the winter is going great for everyone. Enjoy the photos and a quick video below of some of my days out so far this winter!

- Matt

Kevin Mahoney on an early season day in Smuggler's Notch. Check out those icicles on the left wall!!!

Matt McCormick on Jeremy Dowdy's "Ghost Wars" M9 at Snake Mtn. Vermont. This route, like most at the crag, is amazing and there is tons more potential up there! I kicked off the Snake Mtn season with a great day out with Josh Worley where he sent a new M10 "The Choss Cave" and I somehow managed to flash the 2nd ascent! (Photo Naomi Risch)

Ben Gilmore following a local Bolton Vermont mixed route. Kevin gave it solid, and bold, lead attempt before sanity took over and we through a top rope on it. 

Visiting Brit Nick Bullock showing us how it's done on Remission Direct (WI 6++ in these conditions!) at Cathedral Ledge, NH. Shortly after this picture was taken Nick took a 30 footer, nearly hitting the ground. I headed up for a look but it was all a bit to bold for me on that day. Nick then jumped back on and sent! This was an impressive lead and following it felt like drytooling M7+ except you were hooking tiny, hollow bubbles of ice instead of rock edges! 

Matt McCormick prior to quickly tucking tail and retreating off Remission Direct. (photo B. Russell)

Matt McCormick leading off on the 2nd pitch of Remission Direct. (photo N. Bullock)

Matt again on the upper column of pitch 2 of Remission Direct (photo N. Bullock)

Drying gear at Bayard Russell and Anne Skidmore-Russell's house! Thanks for letting me crash on the house guys! (photo N. Bullock)

Bayard and me on the approach to "Astro Turf" at Lake Willoughby Vermont. My friend Josh Hurst and I put this route up back in 2005. It was really cool to return to it last week with Bayard and Nnick Bullock for what I think was the 5th ascent of this amazing mixed line! (photo N. Bullock)

Lake Willougby from the lake. Strangely devoid of ice! Astro Turf takes lowest-reaching smear in the middle of the face.  (N. Bullock)

 Matt McCormick leading the scrappy first pitch of Astro Turf. (photo N. Bullock)

Bayard Russell at the top of pitch one about to squeeze behind the chockstone. Good thing the three of us are kinda skinny! (photo N. Bullock)

Bayard leading off on pitch 2 of Astro Turf. This is a really amazing pitch that starts out with a short drytooling traverse and then goes straight up a thin ice smear that is always un-protectable for the first 50-60 ft.

Bayard about to get some well-deserved gear on the smear of pitch 2. 

Nick Bullock atop pitch 2 with Matt following in the background. (photo B. Russell)

Nick starting up the drytooling toward the ice roof. 

 Nick Tucked in behind the ice curtain on the crux 3rd pitch of Astro Turf. When Josh and I first did this pitch we dry-tooled up and over the center of the roof to reach thin ice. On this day the thick ice roof and curtain forced Nick out right on awesome hooks and steinpulls to pull out and around this thin ice umbrella!

A quick video of Nick pulling the roof!

Matt leading the 70m ice pitch to finish Astro Turf. (photo N. Bullock)

Nick Bullock rapping off Omega on Cannon Cliff after 2 amazing and engaging pitches. This route rarely forms top to bottom with ice as seen here. It was great that Nick could catch the route in this condition during his visit. After a ro-sham-bo I drew the 1st pitch which was completely detached after a couple sunny but cold days. Fortunately it's low angle so you could stand on your feet. The second pitch was really cool climbing on big blobs of ice with the occasional solid drytooling placement here and there. 

Matt leading the thin, brittle and detached first pitch. I won the ro-sham-bo but definitely lost on which pitch I got!

Nick topping out on the first pitch of Omega.

The view from Omega looking at the Franconia Ridge. 

Nick starting up the second pitch of Omega.

Nick above the roof on the second pitch of Omega.