tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28071021314018852552024-02-07T08:42:25.019-08:00Matt McCormick-Climbing Adventures Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.comBlogger46125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-73426950677177459362013-12-19T09:05:00.003-08:002013-12-19T09:13:35.590-08:00Post Nasal Drip<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
When I first moved to Vermont I remember skiing up in to Smuggler's Notch and seeing the Quartz Crack Face adorned with icicles and capped by some of the most massive roofs around. I immediately pictured a mixed line weaving through the roofs and connecting icicles. A couple of weeks ago, <a href="http://www.mountainsenseguides.com/">Peter Doucette</a> and I climbed the classic Snotcicle route on the right side of the face and I dry tooled out left from the top of the ice, hanging in order to place a pin and find some gear in the shattered rock. That day we rapped after the traverse and returned yesterday to finish it up. We climbed three pitches out and left from the top of the Snotcicle with some of the most wildly positioned mixed climbing I've done. We called the route "Post Nasal Drip" (M7 WI4+).<br />
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<i>Post Nasal Drip with the belays marked. </i></div>
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<i>Peter leading the Snotcicle on the first attempt. </i></div>
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<i>Me starting the pitch 2 traverse on the first attempt. </i></div>
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<i>Me sending pitch 2 on our 2nd attempt. </i></div>
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<i>Peter following pitch 2. </i></div>
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<i>Peter latching the ice on pitch 3. </i></div>
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<i>Pitch 3</i></div>
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<i>Peter at the crux move of pitch 3. Tourqeing in the crack proved to be especially awkward so we both utilized a tiny edge which locked off on to reach up into the corner. Neither of us could believe that the hook stayed in place!</i></div>
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<i>Me leading the very Scottish final pitch with amazing position above the roof.</i></div>
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<i>Going for the top-out turf shot on the last pitch. </i></div>
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<i>Peter following the last pitch. (Check out the ropes hanging in space below!)</i></div>
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<i>Pretty cool spot to belay on the final pitch!</i></div>
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Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-13341847312709396172013-10-16T16:47:00.000-07:002013-11-01T09:28:20.244-07:00China<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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From
inside the soft yellow light of our cook tent the droning sound amplifies, an
invisible missile, its target unknown. I rush to stick my head outside the
window of the tent just in time to witness this granite missile culminate in a
horrifying impact of stone on stone complete with a 30 ft. cloud of rock dust. From our camp, tucked between the coarse boulders, below the west face of Seerdengpu I watch as
the dust cloud recedes from the midst of the first pitch of our intended line
up the northwest buttress. Yesterday in an acclimatization foray on the same
line we had nearly been struck twice with similar rockfall. A contemplative
silence looms over the camp. It is time to change plans again.</div>
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This
wouldn’t be the first time our plan had changed this season or doubt about our
objectives had filled my head. The whole year we had planned, trained and
prepared for a trip to the Trango Valley to attempt a new line on Uli Biaho.
Then in April I was diagnosed with an inguinal hernia and had surgery to repair
it. For the next several weeks I could barely put on my own socks let alone
prepare for an expedition to the Karakorum. With time I healed though and as
mid June arrived I was feeling stronger and more confident with each day. Then
the unthinkable happened in Pakistan. One the evening of June 22, a group of
Taliban walked into the Diamar basecamp below Nanga Parbat and killed 12
climbers. This horrible incident rocked the community of climbers who had been
to Pakistan and had experienced nothing but warmth and hospitality. For me it
was exactly what I had always told my friends and family wouldn’t happen, “it’s
not like the Taliban are going to hike for days into your basecamp,” I would
say.<span style="font-size: x-small;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i>The West Face of Seerdengpu (left) seen from the valley.</i></div>
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<i>Trying to tell the locals where we wanted our basecamp. Communication was very difficult with almost no one speaking english.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6aRlAUd1Z0M_s3ePZCtflmR5yTK_7iuUh4k5ol9sEQ978Nj1dFmGXfKQQ98fGq5Ht9-rlUg2TToZxSux_KVvODDlxb5GcedwRMqIH0BI5o_Uzd8sJLbODhpsm3gcIY4Ml9pouNhO0HTrr/s1600/jeff_18.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6aRlAUd1Z0M_s3ePZCtflmR5yTK_7iuUh4k5ol9sEQ978Nj1dFmGXfKQQ98fGq5Ht9-rlUg2TToZxSux_KVvODDlxb5GcedwRMqIH0BI5o_Uzd8sJLbODhpsm3gcIY4Ml9pouNhO0HTrr/s640/jeff_18.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Keita Kanehara of Japan bouldering during a short break in 12 day stretch of bad weather.</i></div>
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The
attack at Nanga Parbat scared me but more impactful, it terrified my family. My
family had always been 100% supportive of my climbing and now, despite how
subtly they might would express their opinions, the vibe just didn’t feel
right. We quickly pulled together a plan B to travel to the Siguniang National
Park in China. The west face of Seerdengpu was an appealing objective and Pat
had already been to the area twice. Tickets were bought and by August we were
on a plane to China. <o:p></o:p></div>
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As
I watched the frighteningly large dust plume fade into the afternoon light, I
felt our psyche for tomorrow’s planned attempt begin to wane. Were we
over-reacting? We couldn’t really tell where the rockfall was coming from.
Would we be reasonably safe if we moved fast in the early morning when there
seemed to be less rockfall? Our chosen line followed several amazing splitters
in perfect granite to more questionable terrain up high. Would the lack of snow
and ice create dangerously loose ledge systems up high? The questions cycled
through my head. As we considered other, less threatened lines, it struck us
both as ironic that we had bailed on our Pakistan plans only to attempt an
objective that seemed much likelier to kill us with rockfall then our chances
of encountering the Taliban would have been in Pakistan.<span style="font-size: x-small;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i>Pat following one of the beautiful granite crack pitches on our first attempt.</i></div>
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<i>Pat leading flakey pitch on our second attempt on the face. </i></div>
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<i>Pat approaching the wall through the early morning fog. The fog in the valley was amazing, flooding the landscape in minutes and then disappearing just as quickly.</i></div>
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The
rest of the trip was wrought with unsettled weather and just plain bad luck. . One day we climbed 1600’ up through a
mix of crystal-laced cracks and run-out 5.10 slab climbing only to be hammered
that night by a lightening storm that was the first of 12 straight days and
nights of rain. We descended to a guesthouse in the valley below passing the
time helping the family there harvest potatoes and occasionally getting in some
bouldering between rain storms. <span style="font-size: x-small;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimS3p5xVKi62IWKhXnraQNir6M5dtSkH1UKNXhII4xXC512Vq1F5pc2K00mGyCx9N9UQs-gBF4j5vRWeqhblKITt34WIdJuFwV-QA52anAxalciVAQ58HTICG-I-586mbawcU8E_qxbGlP/s1600/jeff_23.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimS3p5xVKi62IWKhXnraQNir6M5dtSkH1UKNXhII4xXC512Vq1F5pc2K00mGyCx9N9UQs-gBF4j5vRWeqhblKITt34WIdJuFwV-QA52anAxalciVAQ58HTICG-I-586mbawcU8E_qxbGlP/s640/jeff_23.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>A view from the approach gully on the final line we attempted. </i></div>
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Despite
continued snow and rain we returned to basecamp as much for a change of scenery
than anything else. As we dug out the tents from under heavy wet snow we
discovered that we had had a visitor. An unknown creature had chewed through
the mesh vent on our single wall tent and stolen all seven pairs of socks we
had left in the tent. Amazingly the now well-insulated creature had not been
interested in anything else. Now
with three increasingly smelly socks between the two of us, we considered our
options. When the weather finally cleared we found our previous line looking
more like a black diamond ski run then the rock buttress we had previously
tried. One final attempt on yet a third line on the face ended before it really
started with Pat throwing up as an apparent result of food poisoning. Shortly after we broke down our camp for
the last time, descending into the valley below under crushing loads.<span style="font-size: x-small;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<i>The third member of our team. </i></div>
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Failure
in my climbing is not a new experience. I’ve found that as my skills and
passion have grown and I push myself harder in each aspect of this sport I fail
more than I succeed. I know this means that I am trying as hard as I can,
unsatisfied with having it any other way. This time though conditions, health, and just plain bad luck prevented us from ever really got a chance to fail, from retreating knowing that you had given it everything you had. </div>
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Now,
home in Vermont, I look up from my computer screen to the heart of the Green
Mountains sprawled out before me in an orange, yellow and red technicolor. I
must admit that failure has gnawed at me since returning home. Questions ripple
near the surface of my conscious mind, “is it all worth it?” “If we had done
this or that maybe we would have sent…” I know better than to be sucked in by
these thoughts but nonetheless they are there. I know that each experience,
successful or not, offers lessons learned and experiences not otherwise had. People
say not to stress the summit, to “appreciate the journey,” or something about
each failure furthering personal growth. I know these things to be true but I’ve found it hard to
swallow this time. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Despite
all the factors that can conspire against you, I know I’ll return to the
mountains. I’ve come to love the process of expeditions, the intense excitement
and drive leading up to departure as I push myself harder in the weight room,
the jaw dropping grandeur of seeing the objective in-person for the first time,
the nervous excitement that keeps me awake the night before an attempt. As the days pass since returning from
China my thoughts slowly shift from any frustrations about the trip to thoughts
and ideas for the next adventure that I can’t wait to begin. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<i><b>I'd like to sincerely thank the support of the American Alpine Club's Lyman-Spitzer Award committee for their support of our expedition despite our last minute change in destination. </b></i></div>
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<i>Brewing up amongst the boulders below Seerdengpu.</i></div>
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<i>Approaching the wall early in the trip. Notice the complete lack of snow as compared to later in the trip!</i></div>
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Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-89137406646368082002013-02-09T11:41:00.002-08:002013-02-09T12:18:38.303-08:00Winter 2013 <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Winter always seems to sneak up on me and then fade to spring as quickly as it came. An early December spent on warm sandstone in the Red River Gorge fades to chilly return to Vermont. A seemingly annual vow to spend more winter days in Rumney ends after one freezing day bouldering on a rope at a windy Waimea. Soon snow is flying and I'm packing late at night for an early start, pulling out the dusty ice tools, still dulled from last year's last day out along crampons, specter hooks, and the other arsenal of gear that comes out for mixed adventures. </div>
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Despite my late fall/early winter yearnings for more rock climbing, my winter psyche inevitably surfaces and then I can't get enough. I've had some awesome days out this winter with some great friends both old and new alike. I hope the winter is going great for everyone. Enjoy the photos and a quick video below of some of my days out so far this winter!</div>
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- Matt</div>
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<i><a href="http://mahoneyalpineadventures.com/">Kevin Mahoney</a> on an early season day in Smuggler's Notch. Check out those icicles on the left wall!!!</i></div>
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<i>Matt McCormick on Jeremy Dowdy's "Ghost Wars" M9 at Snake Mtn. Vermont. This route, like most at the crag, is amazing and there is tons more potential up </i><span style="text-align: left;"><i>there! I kicked off the Snake Mtn season with a great day out with Josh Worley where he sent a new M10 "The Choss Cave" and I somehow managed to flash the 2nd ascent! (Photo Naomi Risch)</i></span></div>
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<i>Ben Gilmore following a local Bolton Vermont mixed route. Kevin gave it solid, and bold, lead attempt before sanity took over and we through a top rope on it. </i></div>
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<i>Visiting Brit <a href="http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/">Nick Bullock</a> showing us how it's done on Remission Direct (WI 6++ in these conditions!) at Cathedral Ledge, NH. Shortly after this picture was taken Nick took a 30 footer, nearly hitting the ground. I headed up for a look but it was all a bit to bold for me on that day. Nick then jumped back on and sent! This was an impressive lead and following it felt like drytooling M7+ except you were hooking tiny, hollow bubbles of ice instead of rock edges! </i></div>
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<i>Matt McCormick prior to quickly tucking tail and retreating off Remission Direct. </i><i>(photo <a href="http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/">B. Russell</a>)</i></div>
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<i>Matt McCormick leading off on the 2nd pitch of Remission Direct. </i><i>(photo N. Bullock)</i></div>
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<i>Matt again on the upper column of pitch 2 of Remission Direct (photo N. Bullock)</i></div>
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<i>Drying gear at <a href="http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/">Bayard Russell</a> and <a href="http://www.anneskidmore.blogspot.com/">Anne Skidmore-Russell's</a> house! Thanks for letting me crash on the house guys! (photo N. Bullock)</i></div>
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<i><a href="http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/">Bayard</a> and me on the approach to "Astro Turf" at Lake Willoughby Vermont. My friend Josh Hurst and I put this route up back in 2005. It was really cool to return to it last week with Bayard and Nnick Bullock for what I think was the 5th ascent of this amazing mixed line! (photo N. Bullock)</i></div>
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<i>Lake Willougby from the lake. Strangely devoid of ice! Astro Turf takes lowest-reaching smear in the middle of the face. </i> <i>(N. Bullock)</i></div>
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<i>Matt McCormick leading the scrappy first pitch of Astro Turf. (photo N. Bullock)</i></div>
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<i><a href="http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/">Bayard Russell</a> at the top of pitch one about to squeeze behind the chockstone. Good thing the three of us are kinda skinny! (photo N. Bullock)</i></div>
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<i><a href="http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/">Bayard</a> leading off on pitch 2 of Astro Turf. This is a really amazing pitch that starts out with a short drytooling traverse and then goes straight up a thin ice smear that is always un-protectable for the first 50-60 ft.</i></div>
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<i>Bayard about to get some well-deserved gear on the smear of pitch 2. </i></div>
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<i>Nick Bullock atop pitch 2 with Matt following in the background. (photo B. Russell)</i></div>
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<i><a href="http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/">Nick</a> starting up the drytooling toward the ice roof. </i></div>
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<i><a href="http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/">Nick</a> Tucked in behind the ice curtain on the crux 3rd pitch of Astro Turf. When Josh and I first did this pitch we dry-tooled up and over the center of the roof to reach thin ice. On this day the thick ice roof and curtain forced Nick out right on awesome hooks and steinpulls to pull out and around this thin ice umbrella!</i><br />
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<i>A quick video of Nick pulling the roof!</i></div>
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<i>Matt leading the 70m ice pitch to finish Astro Turf. (photo N. Bullock)</i></div>
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<i>Nick Bullock rapping off Omega on Cannon Cliff after 2 amazing and engaging pitches. This route rarely forms top to bottom with ice as seen here. It was great that Nick could catch the route in this condition during his visit. After a ro-sham-bo I drew the 1st pitch which was completely detached after a couple sunny but cold days. Fortunately it's low angle so you could stand on your feet. The second pitch was really cool climbing on big blobs of ice with the occasional solid drytooling placement here and there. </i></div>
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<i>Matt leading the thin, brittle and detached first pitch. I won the ro-sham-bo but definitely lost on which pitch I got!</i></div>
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<i>Nick topping out on the first pitch of Omega.</i></div>
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<i>The view from Omega looking at the Franconia Ridge. </i></div>
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<i><a href="http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/">Nick</a> starting up the second pitch of Omega.</i></div>
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<i><a href="http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/">Nick</a> above the roof on the second pitch of Omega.</i></div>
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Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-83691038151099353612012-09-21T06:41:00.001-07:002012-09-21T07:25:24.557-07:00The Great Escape - Another new Adirondack Classic!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Just when I start thinking that the Adirondacks are maybe tapped out all of a sudden there are WAY TOO MANY projects and I wish I could be in 5 places at once!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alcatraz!</td></tr>
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The most recent focus of my projecting OCD has been the new "Alcatraz" wall situated high up and left of Moss Cliff in Wilmington Notch. For years I've looked at this wall from the road, meaning to go up there and check it out. This summer when I was in Canada, a young local named Conor Cliffe made the considerable effort to pioneer the vertical forest approach to the wall and established 3 new routes. As soon as I heard about this I had to go and check it out.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Will negotiating the fixed rope on the approach to Alcatraz!</td></tr>
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Naomi was awesome as usual and agreed to make the burly trek up there with full bolting kit and multiple ropes. Right away the left-most line on the cliff drew me in. A barely-there seam in a shallow left facing corner leading to a perfect finger crack. I climbed the sandbagged .12a/b/c to the right, bolted an anchor and rapped over it, placing 3 bolts in between some solid gear placements. At first I thought the route would go quick but as is often the case, it turned out to be harder than I expected. The climbing is super fun with a series of lefthand slaps up the shallow corner and righthand face holds out on the face.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Great Escape .13a/b</td></tr>
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After bolting a couple of other lines and checking out a couple more potential ones I turned my attention to sending the project. My first redpoint burns were shaky at best and afterward I slightly lowered one of the bolts creating a little better flow and getting rid of what had been a unnecessary scary clip. My next day out I one-hung it three times falling out of the crux move getting into the final finger crack. This move is super unique and involved a delicate and barn-doory righthand crossover into a "imaginary" thumbs down hand jam which you kind of dynamically load before matching in and pulling into a layback. Each go I would stall the jam for a milli-second before exploding out rather violently!<br />
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Yesterday I went back up with my friend Will Roth and sent 3rd go! It super cool to be up there on an absolutely perfect day with a good friend. Will always brings the positive energy to the max and it helped a lot. Sometimes projects feel easy when you finally send. This one felt like a battle right till the end.<br />
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<b style="text-align: left;">The fall conditions are here and the weather has been amazing! Onto to the next one!</b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Psyched!</td></tr>
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Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-62401951265737298632012-06-13T11:32:00.003-07:002012-06-14T12:04:17.803-07:00Highway 61<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Yesterday, after a couple of previous attempts, I managed to nab the 2nd complete ascent of Highway 61 at Cathedral Ledge!<br />
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Highway 61 is a 4-6 pitch (Depending how you finish) 5.13a free variation to the aid route Mines of Moria that was put up back in 2003 by Tim Kemple. The route goes straight up the beautiful and intimidating Mordor Wall section of the cliff. The climbing is defined by powerful boulder problems on the slippery Cathedral granite protected by a combination of bolts, gear, and bashies at the route's crux. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYG8iBhMMU1SIYbLJRZnZZJpSfuNUjJUJgPpiBw8Hrk81t1MvsdhevVMq2LS3PAW5xmz0QE0vBDBUYJCTkeOVBolHt-k-ahtdoT9jEAL58vq9P6tR8AgnE6qwzB35-3LuybyeaHILjnn2w/s1600/cathedral.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYG8iBhMMU1SIYbLJRZnZZJpSfuNUjJUJgPpiBw8Hrk81t1MvsdhevVMq2LS3PAW5xmz0QE0vBDBUYJCTkeOVBolHt-k-ahtdoT9jEAL58vq9P6tR8AgnE6qwzB35-3LuybyeaHILjnn2w/s400/cathedral.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Cathedral Ledge showing our line of ascent</i></div>
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My friend Sam Bendroth and I had twice previously tried for the complete ascent but had gotten shut down by different factors including the onslaught of New England black flies this month. Instead of starting around 11am as we had in the past we got any early 6am start to try and catch the 1st .12d pitch before the sun really warmed it up. This ended up working well and I sent on my first go. Despite having sent the pitch in the past, Sam didn't manage to pull through the crux deadpoint. I'm sure he's got it in the bag soon!<br />
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<i>Looking up at Pitch 1</i></div>
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We hung out on the ledge for an hour or so waiting for the .13a second pitch to go into the shade. After a while I tied in and punched into the stiff boulder problem off the ledge. The non-stop rain we've been having for the past week and half had washed all of the chalk of the pitch, making it challenging to find some of the subtle holds but I managed to squeak through to the corner where you can get a big no-hands stem and recover. The next section of the pitch climbs up and onto the left wall of the corner culminating in a powerful yet subtle boulder problem protected by 2 bashies and an old machine head below your feet. I just managed to hold on through the crux and mantled onto the ledge above following the beautiful finger crack to the anchor above. </div>
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Sam pulling the lip on the crux pitch</div>
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The 3rd pitch follows a beautiful left-facing corner which was completely overgrown until I rapped in a few weeks ago with an old ice tool and wire brush and brought this 5-star .11b pitch back to life. If this one were on the ground rather than the middle of the Mordor Wall, it would get climbed everyday!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDp_RUutZPgSjWpbX8FeXhP2UvKBVZQyRsEhf-mMXGxoQ1TbuBO2qfAkw_MUeVzA_Z_EXHFcPHQun1I0ADDtf2vX4ZrLjeQd3yVLcCkVcZzMm0ipu7027GLK6TW2thIBk43qCmSRYiZG-E/s1600/IMG_0872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDp_RUutZPgSjWpbX8FeXhP2UvKBVZQyRsEhf-mMXGxoQ1TbuBO2qfAkw_MUeVzA_Z_EXHFcPHQun1I0ADDtf2vX4ZrLjeQd3yVLcCkVcZzMm0ipu7027GLK6TW2thIBk43qCmSRYiZG-E/s320/IMG_0872.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>At the anchor above the crux pitch</i></div>
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After Same led and I followed the third pitch we assessed the situation above. The Bridge of Kazad-Dum (11d) was pouring with water as was the Pendulum Roof (.11d) out left. Climbing up and right on an un-known slab line looked to be the only option. I started up the pitch and after about 60' of climbing hit a big runout friction slab that I just didn't like the looks of. I put a biner on the bolt below and down-climbed about 15' before making a 50' traverse right across the .11b slab to join Lights in the Forest via the "new" "McCormick-Bendroth Connector." From there we followed the last two pitches of Lights in the Forest to top of the cliff to complete an awesome day out on a very worthy route!</div>
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</div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-87170324011557979272012-05-16T12:01:00.000-07:002012-05-16T12:09:06.146-07:00Spring time in New England<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
After spending a successful couple of weeks in the Red River Gorge back in March, I've been enjoying an unusually dry spring here in New England. Routes that are usually soaked in April have been bone dry and I have to say it's been one of the best spring seasons I can remember.<br />
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<i>Paradise Lost .13b Red River Gorge</i><br />
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<i>Travis Peckham on his route Encryption .12d at the 82 Crag Bolton, VT.</i><br />
<i>Look for a guidebook for Vermont Rock climbing coming out soon. Preview <a href="http://www.vermontrock.com/">here!</a></i></div>
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I've been spending a lot of time sport climbing in Rumney which is something I haven't done in a while. While the crowds can be a bit much, the climbing really is world class. I was psyched to wrap up some new projects for me there including the mega-classic resistance route Charlie Don't Surf 13b. I also got to do a couple routes that I still hadn't been on right in my own backyard of Bolton Vermont. Highlights include the mega-technical Encryption .12d and Who's Your Daddy .12c which might have one of the coolest 5.12 boulder problems I've ever been on. I'm hoping all the time clipping bolts will pay off in the fall when some of my projects in the sacks open up from their peregrine closures. </div>
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<i>Mike Korek on sustained upper arete of Charlie Don't Surf .13b Rumney</i></div>
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This past weekend Naomi and me climbed at Cathedral Ledge in North Conway. I got on a Tim Kemple route called Highway 61 which is a free variation combining 2 different aid routes. The first pitch is protected by a mixture of bolts, pins, and gear and goes at about.12d through some awesome granite boulder problems. I was psyched to send that first pitch on Saturday and then Sunday got a few goes in on the harder second pitch. I'm psyched to go back for this thing and do it all in one push to the top!</div>
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<i><a href="http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/cathedralstyle/">Bayard Russell</a> working the first .12d pitch of Highway 61</i><br />
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In late July I'll be heading to the East Creek Basin of the Bugaboos with my friend <a href="http://megapeewee.blogspot.com/">JP Ouellet</a> (Peewee). We're psyched to climb in the Howser Towers for a couple weeks but more on that later!</div>
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<i>The North (1/3 of it), Central and South Howser Towers!</i></div>
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I hope everyone is having a great spring! Get after it!!!</div>
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</div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-25162660940418769892012-05-14T12:37:00.001-07:002012-05-14T12:37:07.306-07:00New Video!!!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This is a short piece I shot and edited last fall with my friend Brian Bittner. Brian is one of Vermont's strongest boulderers and makes his living buying and selling antiques. This video shows him making the first ascent of "The Fat Kid" V12 in Bolton, VT.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="300" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/38174610" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="400"></iframe></div>
</div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-89503087007791392332012-02-02T13:26:00.000-08:002012-02-06T15:04:25.750-08:00A new variation on Cannon Cliff and the MWV Ice fest!<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">This has been a funny winter here in New England. More often than not the season has felt more like early spring than the cold an snowy winters we've grown accustomed to. I suppose that's what makes New England so unique though, one day can be -1F and then next 40F! Yesterday was just one of those days.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">The forecast called for heavy rain throughout the day and temperatures nearing the the low 40's. <a href="http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/">Bayard Russell</a> and I made plans to meet at 7:30 in the Cannon Cliff parking lot, reasoning that the temps would stay at least<i> near</i> freezing. As I woke up early and drove to toward Cannon the temperature was around 35F and it slowly began to rain the close I got to Franconia Notch. I have to admit I was NOT optimistic!</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">There were two other parties gearing up in the lot when we arrived including Matt Ritter and Jeff from Plymouth and our friends <a href="http://www.cloudsplitterguides.com/">Emily Drinkwater</a> and Lori Crowningshield from the Adirondacks. Ice climbing in the rain seemed to be the "thing to do" so we figured we would at least walk the base of the cliff. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">As we rounded the corner near Moby Grape we caught glimpse of an incredible smear seemingly pouring out of no where just right of the fable route Icarus. The precipitation had eased off and Bayard grabbed the rack and took us up a beautiful approach pitch with iced up corners that would characterize the rest of the day. That pitch deposited us a the base of the incredible smear that neither of us had ever seen there before. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfRhbtR6nJNJP7j4hdkEKLkvymfet5VzRgUsv0wKs3mzJFWnKER5gfEHub-SPycM9XEpf4UjvcqeltzVqxpOOcd6abKd0zBMt7Mf88kdRGqZk11lkO3Y5ssH51kw-hitBwvbFMO2PRQrD0/s400/theminotaursideview.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704660122342163602" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><i>The Minotaur climbs the smear on the lower right side of the wall pictured here.</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">The ice started off thin and hollow but quickly turned thick enough to protect with screws and plastic as well! After 70ft. the smear ended and I was amazed to see a perfect green C3 size crack leading upward into a right facing corner. After fiddling some gear into the unnervingly frosted crack, I launched up the corner past a useless specter and some great torquing to a belay below the next corner. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">Bayard led the next 70m pitch which zig-zagged between different corners, all iced-up with 4-6 inch runnels. The pitch was never desperate but was hard to protect as all of the cracks were filled with ice. I took us up another 60 meter pitch of quickly melting ice and turf to the base of what an overlap and left facing corner. As I climbed our friends Jeff Previte and Matt Ritter rapped passed, bailing as darkness grew. They graciously volunteered to grab our packs that we had left at the base. I knew we were now two pitches from the top as I had climbed these pitches a few years ago with Kevin Mahoney as we finished the Quartet Ice Hose. As Bayard started up the pitch, water pretty much poured from everywhere, soaking my down belay jacket and keeping Bayard on his toes as the choosy rock and turf began to come unglued. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzTBr3lchubytFLJFHaVOksKza_ksgZ2259l4nKRft7K4bIjI7JrYapQCm3ljvJDQda8fSEUwLQy095EP5OEDIskOCBubz6TIXFQJos6Kjf4GPY0_piMKHxcOaj-n5xyYS1dz4gXjXbVve/s400/theminotaur.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704660691693480450" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-size:85%;"><i>The "big-wall" section of Cannon Cliff. The smear we climbed is left of center.</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-size:85%;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">Bayard did a great job of negotiating the tricky dry tooling and made it to the belay at an old spectre hook that I had welded in years ago. By now the weather was consistently switching between pouring rain, hail, and snow. Fortunately the warm temperatures made the soaking wet conditions bearable. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">It was pretty much dark as I started up the last pitch which climbed 20ft of easy dry tooling to the endless summit slabs of ice and frozen turf. I led for a full 70m with our one little headlamp and hip-belayed Bayard up. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">Topping out the middle of Cannon in winter is not something you get to do very often. The setting is amazing with all the scrub pines and granite blocks covered in hoar frost. Bayard nailed the descent and we were back at the car by 7:30pm. We called our new variation <i>The Minotaur NEI 4+ M6+</i><b>.</b></span></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; font-weight: normal; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXv8pwx94eLDvCpNOzr9H2jypTu6BpHzfcH64S2PFdeSQ4sE8xnX3dHdfYv9g8JAhCLtQKtljZ6BomC6swXMksQFWjpwrEvQ7zcviuAAUoaoRUM0VbUKnMi4CM_duqyys92cSqq2CodSYB/s400/theminotour2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5704660453461289810" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><i>The line of the Minotaur variation to Icarus!</i></span></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">The rest of the weekend was spent at the 19th annual <a href="http://icefest.blogspot.com/">Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest.</a> Big thanks to all the people who worked so hard to make this year's festival the biggest and best ever!</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">Below are some photos from the weekend!</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyTEJ2oYF1-kWl1HadeMqeaUeCiETyuKTPPm0JMlUukWpWmqA3dbCMDFGWUz9u8Cw7-KHh7LNcoULz6ObWBsCMsq72Xe9IHqgCBmydZBw8J5tEaqo7excoS-7gxxEDK6QxSh6ajlG7ZwaX/s400/IMG_0615.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706157749160164098" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">I was psyched to climb with Mike Burke of New Jersey on Friday and Sunday. Thanks for two great days out Mike!</span></i></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "></span><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7NgFJt0MpoFvpjLAsY0y0kH9rN82vz9ZdxnoVq20-61x6wvzDzCmhDZsDy99YcnbFxr1Z0ybLpmH8kkNoxGllpI2vPvVC0X4DIXSkGSvtojRPeDabwG3m7Lc70i7C_iZjK2CRV8kVv08e/s400/IMG_0611.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706157755981199458" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><i>Mike rightly looking psyched to max on "Sheer Elegance" a rarely climbed gem off the Kancamangus Highway</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigMTINeKoX_qa-TaSAslIR2PKhXE9ypFHdjb9yffudDREmQYznlENZ7c0cBhUViOpZY2S0mWq1WtRwiAT_f8aQ33Yoaf3yy17E8AdoAU7c9n8NQ4eOw873Qv0HZnqiVH-K_7dwF5yzCnAy/s400/IMG_0603.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706157764956937106" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><i>Dave Karl sharing the new <a href="http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/headlamp/nao/nao-headlamp">NAO headlamp</a> with Todd Asher-Bergstein at the Icefest</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span></i></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOPEEimtWZa6P_m6ODZIRXYJgUmIC-QQI_H02_bOK7yUkNWg79dIgaxa-6kAo4QZsOFBXbCcUGJoU932A00_hNmh02onAsN0pOn74Ty8K7kvRQPChN_oNIzglX4Ib1uT-Pn9hf3iBn0M0M/s400/IMG_0599.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706157773001886578" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 400px; " /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:85%;">A shot from the previous weekend. A group solo of Hidden Gully in Smuggler's Notch, VT!</span></i></div><div><br /></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-19947750371384568262012-01-30T09:44:00.000-08:002012-01-30T11:00:12.017-08:00The AAC Annual Dinner!For me the idea of dressing up for formal dinners is not always too exciting but I'm really looking forward to the <a href="http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/annual-benefit-dinner">American Alpine Club's annual dinner</a> on March 3rd in Boston!<div><br /></div><div>The AAC supports climbers in so many ways...</div><div><br /></div><div> -<a href="http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/aaj"> </a><a href="http://americanalpineclub.org/p/aaj">The American Alpine Journal!</a> THE resource for researching expedition travel around the</div><div> world and now searchable online! Did you know that as a member you are entitled to one day</div><div> of free research at the AAC library? </div><div><br /></div><div>- <a href="http://www.americanalpineclub.org/grants">GRANTS!</a> Expeditions are expensive. I have been fortunate to receive money through the AAC for two <a href="http://www.americanalpineclub.org/grants/g/5/Copp-Dash-Inspire-Award">Copp-Dash Inspire Awards</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>- <a href="http://americanalpineclub.org/p/insurance">Rescue Insurance</a> - The AAC is partnered with Global Rescue to benefit all AAC members. </div><div> This past summer My friends Mark Richey and Freddie Wilkinson utilized Global Rescue to</div><div> initiate a helicopter evac of their partner Steve Swenson from the base of Saser Kangri II</div><div> when he became gravely ill.</div><div><br /></div><div>This year at the dinner Freddie will be premiering a film about their first ascent of Saser Kangri II. Check out the trailer below!</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/35543356?byline=0&portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">One of the things I find so amazing about climbing is the blurring of generational gaps. Many of my best climbing partners are nearly old enough to be my parents and many are years younger. This theme is central to Freddie's movie and the theme of this year's dinner. I hope to see many of you there!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-62122823477110184152012-01-11T08:08:00.000-08:002012-01-11T08:42:33.233-08:00Ice-Fest Season!<div>The season of Ice Festivals is upon us! It all kicks off this weekend with the <a href="http://www.mountaineer.com/?page_id=83">Mountainfest</a> in the Adirondacks! <a href="http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/">Bayard Russell</a> and I will be giving a slideshow Saturday night featuring a bunch of great video and photos of northeast ice and mixed climbing. They'll be demos from all the best gear companies including <a href="http://www.sportiva.com/">La Sportiva</a>, <a href="http://www.petzl.com/">Petzl</a>, and <a href="http://www.outdoorresearch.com/en/">Outdoor Research</a> plus great shows from Zoe Hart on Friday and Emilie Drinkwater on Sunday! Don't miss it!</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilyL-0k6r8lo77U_0O07fwpCSDEN-Fm1yB6cXmtTfVem3VfMbqYLLv0yYKu-JLSovTwZDvGagNydAAbVFJ5lA9AU0C9h8QyMGed628LL0ygCXzDaCUNnBnl-2HNg7mTQyVnAQM8RJkEweb/s400/Mtfest2012.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5696407655801305298" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div>The winter season has been a little slow getting going this year but I've managed a few fun days out. Here </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4bPysxbbDZWllrZPvsSNDyCxKSHliMZxv_89iXLXfimAEr93EbgZ4yAUKeIm227YPeNwvJn6vSEvipNt3sEGo7D0JeofAurNmBy2J3hxxJCf9cwjRQhWu4ujiV_GFKGx4YZuG_3bqM_ig/s1600/P1050230_1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 275px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4bPysxbbDZWllrZPvsSNDyCxKSHliMZxv_89iXLXfimAEr93EbgZ4yAUKeIm227YPeNwvJn6vSEvipNt3sEGo7D0JeofAurNmBy2J3hxxJCf9cwjRQhWu4ujiV_GFKGx4YZuG_3bqM_ig/s400/P1050230_1.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5696412863082063442" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>The Snotscicle in Smuggler's Notch. Bayard and I checked out the unclimbed dry tooling about the ice and will definitely be back for that!</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWpHc1PRSVVShmTBqM3_75Hlx6oLDrAoVGRfYeOnWoCuXp2uPk3zXmoGiBkx_vQ3PP8mWvdm_SUH4tSv-MuymbMbPpH29zpqKPbhts36_vWbMDvSUCY1bFNPJyGrtq7nDs4n-uKZIYVch3/s1600/fafnir.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWpHc1PRSVVShmTBqM3_75Hlx6oLDrAoVGRfYeOnWoCuXp2uPk3zXmoGiBkx_vQ3PP8mWvdm_SUH4tSv-MuymbMbPpH29zpqKPbhts36_vWbMDvSUCY1bFNPJyGrtq7nDs4n-uKZIYVch3/s400/fafnir.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5696410406911524226" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>The classic Fafnir with my good friend Jake Frerk. My thoughts are with him and the rest of the <a href="http://skierboyz.blogspot.com/">Skier Boyz</a> this weekend.</i></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilyL-0k6r8lo77U_0O07fwpCSDEN-Fm1yB6cXmtTfVem3VfMbqYLLv0yYKu-JLSovTwZDvGagNydAAbVFJ5lA9AU0C9h8QyMGed628LL0ygCXzDaCUNnBnl-2HNg7mTQyVnAQM8RJkEweb/s1600/Mtfest2012.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><br /></span></a></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-76722657827522415662011-12-26T12:59:00.001-08:002011-12-26T13:19:17.489-08:00Happy Holidays and New Year!<div style="text-align: left;">I hope everyone is having a great holiday season. Looking back on the year I feel incredibly fortunate for all of the opportunities, experiences, people met, and just plain general fun I've had this year from my backyard to the other side of the world. Maybe it's my goal-oriented personality by I like this time of year to look back on the year past and ahead to new things yet to come.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Here's a short video I put together with some images from the past year... Enjoy!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/34039427?byline=0&portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div>Since I first traveled to Pakistan 2 years ago, I've received heart felt holiday cards from my friends over there. With so much negative news these days about the US's relationship with Pakistan, these cards are a wonderful reminder of the kindness I've experienced there. As my friend <a href="http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/">Kelly Cordes</a> wrote about the same subject, how many cards have you sent for holidays completely separate and different from your own? How many totally foreign holidays are you even aware of? Thank you <a href="http://www.bluskytours.com/">Ghulam</a> and Ali Muhammad for your kind cards!</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT06xGaT_we7qXSlIEMM7klfTI5tKh8I6tZl8KIAfxQUC2yipuNLN5Jpq398WKrWpEUckKUtAlraY8zSEoP6HBEEY52qRMii1cxYiGHUa7RPw9DFaQUFB4pOTPDEZmG-T9-PT_MDAt5V6u/s400/happynewyear2012.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5690547212212857218" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 275px; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; " /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyfolbaXM1i9nMOsxSfPFJL7142VkXFdtLU5pt9vk5l59BG3jb040SwHVsG-XAWdVqm8Rrj9qL0xAwWh9fnfyoLYS-knz4ufPPXPJ1xHUZgjhgHzVMWgOwd82ogz7LcQBhhC0ziMC3G7IU/s400/378121_2665651054385_1649307370_2479939_472252124_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5690547212667039330" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 279px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-27721609698572158852011-12-21T17:57:00.000-08:002011-12-21T21:07:32.779-08:00Winter Game On!<div style="text-align: left;">There was a time not long ago that I couldn't wait for winter to begin. I would nab an ascent of the Black Dike as early as possible and even traveled to the Canadian Rockies several times to catch some Thanksgiving ice! In that last 4 years though I've stretched the rock climbing season as our east coast weather allows. This I traveled down to the Red River Gorge and the New River Gorge for most of November and left wanting more of that warm pocketed rock.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then something clicks... I'm not sure what it is but every year all of a sudden I am psyched for winter. This year it was a photo posted online by my friend Eric Eisele of Cannon Cliff that sparked it. Out came the dusty ice tools and crampons, digging for warm layers that inevitably still have holes from last season. The whole process of packing for the first winter day out always takes twice as long.</div><div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNb1RdjxkF73xVaES6pWILlNWFZhUZPRW6IvyJsJ5HsSe6SGhWqQlsRr69wPyFv57eNy_c_rcgtFTv5vYAyZysC1kprbt1Bkw0baWSS1YIMrlqYfYRQ8qVhegadqOFwEUccfQXN82fPGad/s400/386418_339851142707644_100000482835570_1425352_608993242_n-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5688813694144254370" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Eric's shot of Cannon. Mean Streak starts with the pillar at the lower left corner </i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>of the cliff line.</i></div><div><br /></div><div>I left my house in Vermont at 5am and arrived in the Cannon parking lot a couple of hours later to meet <a href="http://www.thenamelesscreature.com/">Freddie Wilkinson</a> and <a href="http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/">Bayard Russell</a>. We had our eye on a route put up about 4 years ago by Will Mayo and Andy Tuthill called Mean Streak. Sure enough the 60 foot pillar at the start was in and the rest of the steep dry tooling, well it looked awesome. It was a great way to kick off the season!</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigPcWa4_D15BmGfioFO7J_nIF6CIPezvHC49BTC_0rFeYQOsfL989MqwslIaD5UhfTsHpPeDpZxbCtHsu5roVUZ9P2oHHN0nifX7PVduUld2CsZ-ZSj82OBQTEfNDQ7BHYMcj-Ej7tWwEh/s400/P1050201.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5688813703444985138" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Bayard styling the first pitch off the couch!</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/34026830?byline=0&color=98c000" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>A short time-lapse that Freddie put together. More to come soon!</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div><br /></div></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-31094497072837460022011-08-17T18:40:00.001-07:002011-08-17T19:19:43.858-07:00The Elephant's Perch<div style="text-align: left;">Since returning from Pakistan I've had a pretty whirlwind couple of weeks! After spending two days at home un-packing I quickly re-packed and flew out to Salt Lake City for the Outdoor Retailer show. I'd be challenged to find a more polar opposite experience from being on expedition in Pakistan! Despite the craziness of the "show" it was great to meet with some of my dealers and also to catch up with friends.</div><div>
<br /></div><div>I had a chance to chat with Hayden Kennedy who along with Kelly Cordes and Kyle Dempster should be arriving in the Charakusa any day now. Sending the good vibes their way!!!</div><div>
<br /></div><div>After the OR show Naomi and I picked up our rental Dodge Grand Caravan (Definitely a contender for my next car now...) and drove northwest to Stanley, Idaho and the Sawtooth Range. The Elephant's Perch was our destination and after a fairly burly hike due to our heavy food (and wine) supply, we were rewarded with views of the golden granite dome spider-webbed with seemingly infinite cracks.</div><div>
<br /></div><div>We started out with a sandbagged 5.10 called <i>Astro-Elephant...</i></div><div><i>
<br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiMqIe4TDpm0_j8n0MsSMNxWsESObHZjGRjH_4H9hMuA-4AfQbmJaLgG_Skpi2T3UaQ8OgkTrY2THFfflmjrmdj1k4JQBns_S5qYB6030kfTTDM92yMkJZknPPnxIyzxfagU7RShLz6Z_P/s400/P1030969.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642009807855962178" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Doug Madara on the sandbagged flare of Astro-Elephan</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">t</span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;">
<br /></span></span></i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpm3frhgZE8hbhT-jFUk9n0tBLOvivgfJV1hdU5H8cUynOXVRZWN0gS7X8FkQWARXlUDgJSqUF6onFdxZZm0L-wTj__6DDZnMqU62YPIPXR1WMwarmTVwwCWp7G7xQ96mwULN4CUIN3p_k/s400/P1030970.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642013771365923698" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></span></span></i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Naomi following pitch 1 of Astro-Elephant</span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>
<br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">After climbing the classic <i>Mountaineer's Route (5.9) </i>the next day, we took a rest day and hung around camp and the beautiful alpine lakes. I took a nice 30' cliff jump into the freezing waters which woke me up to say the least.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">
<br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBBVjxibYBNftkD3S-OJfvaFE_F2-LC5-yStLebUJ9mRnkPXEJnzGFLpkOxEQaO31APGtTDHPj8EG74ko9hyhqoWIpcnPtR1sSTlgZXg__EIDiKGT0yeob5s3l6govo1rfS_xgw2ZSgHnf/s400/P1030967.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5642013766926055986" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">The Elephant's Perch!</span></i></div><div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">The next day Naomi and I climbed the classic<i> "Direct Beckey" (5.11). </i>This was by far the longest and most sustained route that Naomi had ever done and she did AWESOME! We topped out and watched the sunset over the Sawtooths. One of the coolest things about the 'Perch is that you can top out at sunset and then be back in camp in a half-hour due to the easy descent gully.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">
<br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">I'm really looking forward to returning to this area! For now it's back in training mode after a summer of getting out of shape alpine climbing :)</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">
<br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Here's a short video I put together of our trip to the 'Perch...</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">
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<br /></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-44563280665575881362011-08-07T21:57:00.000-07:002011-08-18T09:33:22.243-07:00Pakistan 2011 Recap!<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRiO8QieqQnodcW4ehQqtBeSEKpTAaMkQuuWYndS4dRuKM1CyxyWEe7Xh5f-cWrtaijISDnRZUNbzsYjHnbbHZIRYEVpAZs7sU9YU3cRDrl1Wpxa_wE1HpYYb3uD15A2eZT1L6BApFK2QX/s1600/P1030462+2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRiO8QieqQnodcW4ehQqtBeSEKpTAaMkQuuWYndS4dRuKM1CyxyWEe7Xh5f-cWrtaijISDnRZUNbzsYjHnbbHZIRYEVpAZs7sU9YU3cRDrl1Wpxa_wE1HpYYb3uD15A2eZT1L6BApFK2QX/s400/P1030462+2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5638358582493212290" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;margin-right: -1.25in; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> <!--StartFragment--> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">“Isn’t there anywhere else you can climb?” “Good to know you…” Generally reactions to us traveling to Pakistan were not positive. My previous year’s experience and that of every climber I know who has traveled to this country told me this was not the case. As I stepped out of the Islamabad baggage claim along with </span></span><a href="http://bolderznwallz.blogspot.com/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Pat Goodman</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> and Will Meinen and into a sea of foreign faces I was nearly blindsided by friend and trekking agent Ghulam Muhammad as he rushed to excitedly greet me. Similar greetings followed as we ran into familiar faces and new ones a like, all ecstatic at our arrival and eager to share their country with us.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVq9ZCPtMlMLeSFr47fgwG1p4qf8kdWqyEBA_xNVm6XHPNFHpzEe3SwJ9uK0MgizAapl9Z8kIlNLVCssYZM7djLnPllGKKpVbHvW3LTbC08cZkTEgLITrAwZQQqbZIfTAr-yebR4LJrBbo/s400/fida.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5638358601697596418" style="text-align: center;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 394px; " /></span></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Our cook and guide Fida Hussain, 60+ years old and veteran of countless espeditions</i></div><div>
<br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">A two day’s walk from the stone and mortar village of Hushe, the Charakusa Valley holds a diversity of climbing I wager is hard to find elsewhere in the world. From granite bouldering to massive unclimbed mixed faces which dominate the landscape, the Charakusa holds several lifetimes of objectives both climbed and unclimbed. The unclimbed southwest pillar of K7 West was our main objective and from my perspective is one of the most striking alpine objectives in the world currently. Poor weather would plague our time in the valley with frequent rainstorms and snow and rime constantly forming on our intended line. Windows of good weather proved to be only 2-3 days long.</span></span></div><div>
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<br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdQTNwOs44_O583j4C_sJrYO35eBRDN3lmwAJDkWA1IlPPJye2pCq1UZfpf57BOHAD9qg7pSk_qcWBCfW3_oe4Kg99Xaio4xDD5SL7mERJM9Po0m_1Tghcfxm33RwIOMLfXStLM0iI315E/s400/P1020588.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5638371314515214322" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Pat with Naysser Brakk in the background</i></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="direction: ltr;text-align: left; margin-right: -1.25in; "><!--StartFragment--> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Pat and I took advantage of our first window by climbing the north ridge (British Route) on Naysser Brakk. One of the three immaculately cut ridges forming the pyramidal shape of Naysser, the North Ridge has become a classic of the valley and provided a good acclimatization mission. After following the final several pitches that resemble Matthes Crest in the Sierra’s, we sat on the surprisingly flat summit of the pyramid in the blazing Karakorum sun blown away by all of the potential we could see in the valley below.</span></span><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/27407294?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="398" height="224" frameborder="0"></iframe></span></span></p> <!--EndFragment--> <p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;margin-right: -1.25in; "><i>A short video of our Naysser Brakk ascent</i></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><!--StartFragment--> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><!--StartFragment--> </p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:16.0pt;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align: none;text-autospace:none"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Searching for one more acclimatization objective and an opportunity for Pat and I to climb with Will who we had not yet roped up with, we decided on an unclimbed granite Pillar across and valley and next to Farhod Brakk. “We’ll probably be able to simul-climb most of it…” we discussed in the days prior as we waited for the incessant drizzle to clear. Pat and I swapped blocks up the blocks following surprisingly hard climbing. Thin seams and cracks would follow a dangerously loose pitch. One pitch found me screaming as if at the sport crag as I bear- hugged my way up a arête above small rp’s. Pat fought his way up a finger crack nearing the 5.12 mark. Above our bivy I completed my block and Pat took us out left of the arête with delicate traverse that led to the the summit pillar.</span></span><o:p></o:p></p> <!--EndFragment--> <p></p> <!--EndFragment--> <p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><!--StartFragment--> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Following many rappels, we reached our boots and ice gear as the light faded. We downclimbed the snow couloir as rain began to fall more and more steadily, narrowly dodging some rockfall. We named the pillar “Fida Brakk” after our friend and cook Fida Hussain. The route we named the “Jenga Spur” </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">V+ 5.11+R A.0 1050m</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">after the numerous loose pitches and the way the route just barely seemed to come together.</span></span></p> <!--EndFragment--> <p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZO8z1z81aWxTxWfF3oGBZn2b7MtscyBzkGmE_xQ8q5cZvqnqd14Pi4MVeC5NL2hrt7gA6eWImUFbmCBiyfgApBpRgQISyb1lyDcCKc98vIRJJowqgyYLJvSFplScQhY0rJULQHQlL5MD/s400/P1030469.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5638360682295341234" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><i>"The Jenga Spur" on "Fida Brakk" V+ 5.11+R A.0 1050m July6-7</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>
<br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9XjpzUtzRfbhPW-TyQQfPRa0tzvSAkyiKjoz7JWFhwXlu9q6ARQjsuF0YKPiDS6kIXHujfhLzVhtqzNijcBE9a7dN6fvss8oXeySkk5mPhAtxDeHByQuj0SKnneWOl9Hu19CyR2xtrP79/s400/P1030323.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5638371311877822418" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; ">Pat on one of the many 5.11+ pitches encountered on the "Jenga Spur"</span></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;">
<br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">As often seems to happen on expeditions, numerous factors kept us from more climbing. We explored different options with Pat and I spending two nights camped below an impressive unclimbed line in the Farol Peak cirque but ultimately ended up leaving the valley content with the climbing we had done and excited to return to explore the multitude of granite that Pakistan holds.</span></span></div><p></p> <!--EndFragment--> <p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span></o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><!--StartFragment--> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">On our way home we visited the village of Haldi where Fida, Ghulam, and all of the Blue Sky Treks and Tours crew lives. Thanks to the generosity of the Burlington Vermont climbing community that donated $200 dollars plus tons of addition school supplies, we delivered a full expedition duffle to the teachers and children of the village. We spent the afternoon visiting with a new schoolteacher of the village who is working to develop the new primary school.</span></span><o:p></o:p></p> <!--EndFragment--> <p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja8dSZhNsoseBNbPmtyEkFQDDkUdXYOvW41dwpLNo_DSdEoYxkSoxUpQNZIvyyEkcVjixht6TN778rj1xt3HnPN_b5mm25eai41LF9It_-ID9xbOXIdi8u-j-uHbaskD-EbP0DUHx-D85B/s400/P1010408.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5638358583697798434" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 222px; " /></span></span></p><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">The juxtaposition of western views of Pakistan versus my experiences here continues to amaze me. As Fida’s son put is so well, “The are miscreants and dangerous areas in nearly every country.” This is very much the case in Pakistan where there are certainly dangerous areas and people. The northern area of Baltistan has been a safe and welcoming place for thousands of climbers and I imagine will continue to be so.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;">
<br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia, serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:large;">We felt extremely fortunate and honored to have the generous financial support of the</span><a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Copp-Dash-Inspire-Award/136549863045377"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:large;">Copp-Dash Inspire Award</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:large;"> and the </span><a href="http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/Satellite?c=fabrics_content_c&cid=1148660729549&pagename=goretex_en_US%2Ffabrics_content_c%2FDetail"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:large;">Gore Shipton-Tilman Grant</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:large;">. THANK YOU!</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia, serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:large;">
<br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia, serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;"><b>A recap at <a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11x/newswire-goodman-mccormick-jenga-spur">Alpinist.com</a></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:large;"> </span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia, serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:large;">
<br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia, serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-size:large;"><b>Look for a full film telling the rest of the story to be released later this fall!</b></span></span></span></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:22.5pt;tab-stops:6.0in"><o:p></o:p></p> <!--EndFragment--> <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right:-1.25in"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEJ9Oi6mxloLWzYnRRDQB6mivHc3g3eW95RPgyHHUAsSrj5OUEqb9e7r_HKha1TWQF_3Mp0M-pej61D3Zj09fe091UXesxdpAmf78wGbPyrnI10qr5L47eFXAIAptTONnu1f1khvjswzwD/s400/P1030536.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5638358595823595666" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></span></p><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">
<br /></span></div> <!--EndFragment--> Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-91719069901920885922011-06-15T23:16:00.000-07:002011-06-16T00:03:25.689-07:00In Pakistan!<div style="text-align: left;">The several months of planning, training and emailing seem to blur together and I find myself back in Islamabad Pakistan waiting to fly to Skardu and the mountains. The last week or so is truly a blur. Things kicked off with a 9pm phone call from <a href="http://bolderznwallz.blogspot.com/">Pat Goodman</a> who was en-route to VT to pack and climb prior to departing. Pat's trusty Toyota Previa "Junebug" had pretty much dropped the drive shaft near the Pennsylvania/New York border and it seemed unlikely to be revived at the time. I hopped in my Tacoma and made the 5 hour drive down to meet him, arriving wound up on three mugs of iced-espresso at 3am. Miraculously all that was needed were a couple of parts and van was going to be good to go the next day. Pat and I headed north while <a href="http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Will-Meinen---Climber/Skier/Athlete_Will_Meinen,default,pg.html">Will Meinen</a>, also en-route to meet us in Vermont, picked up the van the next day.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbP4qGdQ5sjmsu56nXOo8hLBKsIkkP20SUwgTv5alNrSE3xBdbw1ygd1-8mvghCFm8PdkDip08Igj65uMG6q6Nf1pn0z3u__7dKkyEPD7dHGX0t-uoypjK0yeXoSWBYh0r4ulynxkS1Gpj/s320/P1000111.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5618701751186728658" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">The rest of our journey to Vermont involved stopping by the Sterling Rope factory to pick up ropes, partying in North Conway with a bunch of our friends, several of whom are headed out on awesome adventures this summer, and nearly hitting a moose on route 2 in Vermont. The adventure seemed to have already begun!</div><div><br /></div><div>With all three of us finally together in Vermont we headed to Cannon Cliff to try and get some climbing in before all of the packing. Hoards of blackflies threatened to lift us off of the wall and we all felt fortunate to be heading to a place this summer where bugs are not an issue. Following days passed in a blur of shopping for food, packing, weighing bags, re-packing and finally throwing everything into Pat's Previa to head to Boston's Logan airport. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg08wtDJ5Ljkv-Gn24OG3mDHmgLqiBqW6ojFDBv4Tu9Z3MG5HWjw70RA4rFAffIO4UgEHXRPmX6IHD6qo4QyhrP1cDI07o5h9Eq17jjEsHws8wx2CovmR-NODvJUceDFUlTWPurt02qvDd/s320/P1000122.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5618703949650920834" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Expedition Duffles</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div>After 24 hours of flying from BOS to London, to Bahrain it was great to finally see my friends Ghulam and Sajjad from Blue Sky Treks and Tours, waiting for us outside the arrival gate in Islamabad. Now we find ourselves in the quintessential Karakorum experience, waiting in the sweltering 100 degree heat of Islamabad waiting to hopefully fly to Skardu tomorrow morning. It feels great to be back and we're all psyched for the next phase of the adventure.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC8WyP8bMt-lKyRSWDooXGiwl_VrEnD4ujHHMfjUxyLE4w2JGqmiOt8s3eHDX0vTZJGdZA01L_Ud1fFrI1VFA-oGSNWDJt88UwZRCHckMGdEercXo2718Xn-gAwuU_uTHAZhRXNo8cKmqr/s1600/P1000139.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC8WyP8bMt-lKyRSWDooXGiwl_VrEnD4ujHHMfjUxyLE4w2JGqmiOt8s3eHDX0vTZJGdZA01L_Ud1fFrI1VFA-oGSNWDJt88UwZRCHckMGdEercXo2718Xn-gAwuU_uTHAZhRXNo8cKmqr/s320/P1000139.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5618706128963365666" style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Pat and Will outside the airport in Islamabad</i></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-36075433631068339152011-05-10T12:28:00.000-07:002011-05-11T11:49:14.678-07:00Now and the Near Future<div style="text-align: left;">It really has been too long since I last posted on this blog. So cliche in the blogging world, I know. Rather than try and catch up on all that I didn't share about the last several months I'll focus on the present and near-future.</div><div><br /></div><div>Most exciting is the news that myself, Pat Goodman, and Will Meinen recently received two generous grants to help fund our trip to the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan. I feel really honored to receive the Copp-Dash Inspire Award and the Shipton-Tilman Award for Gore-Tex. I'll be returning for a second time to attempt the unclimbed Southwest Pillar of K7 West. We leave in mid-june and will be in Pakistan for nearly 7 weeks. Needless to say, the psyche is really high right now and we are in full "get-ready" mode. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXqLihYJwtAeMVQNRYBem-T9buXs8IsUIBfaAXOk9c0_zqzHX-52sKn6U4a3ISecUuUA4fqYdPhrANbuMkRX3JChOPqqzwdoIYsu389uf362C6c0BXRV_gC1sdjiSkp8e-a_zGo90lb3vB/s400/gt_logo%252C0.gif" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605175110461085634" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 133px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>The Gore-Tex Shipton-Tilman Award!</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFMZBUykivZHXp9tkQ1aIhrzmRIZUjRI-5uDAi9SGlbVOXAkqMROqyLl3QF31In49FExy7GKhwB3urCUvSRqVxt8_JG9mMPzOQOjdNPuJ2uS9kN6_8W-E8S6gWwx6N2Qrvs2_ijFHCKJk-/s320/IMG_0929.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605243193055824194" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 220px; height: 165px; " /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcXAD9v5rN_fkbpSA_IRrRswY1ZBrpAMtaoXjpN3lSvSe-AzFLZuwwPUk_hMb8e-cDubWmXSuqQ240QLzEW7tAHTRuUCrhqfdxZ4VFM7udOIJxHwTyhMMvh5ozS7IKNQY4YlR5o5aKVz79/s400/Will.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605177051156890834" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 213px; " /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Pat Goodman (top) and Will Meinen</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitxn76RIYpneYqAvvIR_7spkALG5gwTNUT8bEHtq7crkklaI1GLS9G97PpUGIAv5Hy3NdcvdPMs6nOTBYgcCLiFOzhv1wCm7Yh1YoFn8NMTnd-icSF-BNU16WDJebJLkA63u8FqyZrir7M/s400/CoppDash+Inspire+Award.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605174674735282754" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 288px; " /></span><div style="text-align: left;">I just returned from an awesome trip top Red Rocks in Nevada to climb with Pat. Despite having traveled all over the place to rock climb, I had never been to this land of immaculate sandstone. The goal was to cover a lot of ground, getting in as much mileage as possible and refining our systems for moving fast. Red Rocks is great for this. The routes can be long and draining and the approaches are usually around an hour.</div></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisaglNHZqQDIwhhlFvF3B952epVFYZILfyiJ0Cl4mLGn4NxMJMJRqvvnEz5wz5YqDXi8zeXKxgTzZ1D6xpjdT-ltPy-2IgA0M6brP92WguAT5_XAkL76NlLgWQW8k4hjRHkengQYuHLwBs/s320/P1010521.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605185436799979426" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Red Rocks with the Rainbow Wall in the back right</span></i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><br /></span></i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; font-size:16px;"><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23546905?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=1" width="398" height="224" frameborder="0"></iframe></span></span></i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><i>A little time-lapse I did in Red Rocks</i></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">It was a great training week being constantly on the go. We didn't tackle anything really hard choosing instead to cover a lot of ground. We did get to hit some absolute classics including Epinephrine, Dogma on Mt. Wilson, and the Original Route on the Rainbow Wall. All these are routes I've wanted to do ever since I started climbing. One of the first climbing books I owned was 50 Favorites by Mark Kroese. I remember the chapter on the Rainbow Wall and always had it in my mind to someday do it. Pat and I hiked up there after previously stashing our gear at the base and got the whole route free. The Ro-Sham-bo gave Pat the 2 5.12 pitches and me the .11d pitches. I was psyched to have a no-falls day on such an amazing wall! </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO0Usr0DtLiYlZWG1klRaYtiaWlThjkewP6HC8rRgRvwPmB6i8kyoytpWauSwTJKiTefdQYCJDE81NzHcZR59n4gp9cSCznhRIKwgyau3aLedoQ8PB6pL6RYwJnZRDDQZzERBSgZTZmSuq/s320/IMG_0379.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605513770763419458" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Hiking up the slabs to the Rainbow Wall</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz8YHAkM8xxFUKppIo8PxJ72LzE17Sz8rZ983BjaKLIPUfo1BOT_K7A2aAQm_hPS63VkZtNqvbzVdfdEZQ1Xt5WluB21sI6ewLRQZgMfGnGtgUuw3hrkCxDNi9-DsbHmGGdbGjh-CwONbS/s320/IMG_0396.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5605513776950448162" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>On the summit of the Rainbow Wall! Cool to be able to top out these features in Red Rocks.;</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Now I'm back in Vermont with just over a month to wrap up my training (more on that to come soon!) and get ready for Pakistan in June!</div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-29009406916870260552010-12-21T18:00:00.000-08:002010-12-22T10:52:03.380-08:00Pump and Dump<div style="text-align: left;">The ice conditions here in the northeast continue to be off the hook! Today I jumped on the ferry from Burlington and crossed Lake Champlain to meet my good friend Will Roth at Poko-Moonshine. Poko is conveniently located a short 10 minute walk from the road which also facilitates a nice drive-by to scope the conditions. When I pulled up to the cliff today I was blown away by the amount of ice plastered to Poko's dark anorthasite walls.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE_05C6ZRH8WpD_fd8z2imIubkO5d0LAEjZao0e7ldoF7knsPnmQnNZSH-l2AkCpw4xnH0OTiwbB4sV8CTh48Na_s0Tv2ot_BwXqlwNtfKtFr0FlrTqS-DJoKHhM8HjBGlgekRgQCVNtGI/s400/P1010157.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553321289470796114" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><i>Will rapping off...</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><i><br /></i></span></div><div>My eye was immediately drawn to to a subtle strip of ice that I had never seen before. This line turned out to be "Pump and Dump" a route that Kevin Mahoney had put up with Matt Horner a few years ago. The route has a reputation of being severely runout and Horner had told me that Kevin had more or less soloed some hard drytooling to access a barely usable amount of ice. </div><div><br /></div><div>The route still had not seen a second ascent...</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">With all these images swirling in my head I decided to go and have a look. Will led a deceptively tricky first pitch where the ice was much thinner than it appeared which brought us up to the business. The crux pitch started off with a fun drytooling traverse which landed me at a stance below the crux seam. The ice just left of the seam was fully unusable and pretty much all came off with a tap of my hammer. In fact the first 30-40' of ice on the route was incredibly detached and flexed and shifted with the slightest pressure!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGRJUZBFAj8VlObjYQD1lCOpSGhyI8HmYuzgIkyL8rjTF4kuHnWx94neNRaEq3Il5TuEKup_crd3hlm16CnG6QU1foPED9iYoMX2eyF950IchaYRzqYoTLFg0oeEotUmlEQ4Y7jlODq_mN/s400/P1010124.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553322985892566226" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><i>About to get going on the traverse...</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLiDUaqqKJLVF-tQMboxYR20gXvj4KxxtrJZlQm3cbuD54vcE9g68VOiaqXpI9zKChEz-ZnZ9OBt41gl46inIisBGSxRns77_Hn3sVMQVpBxphlMLrd55B2-vE4O9IUz0rgBaPlIaoWzgG/s400/shopped.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553350473382787698" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></span></i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><i>Across the traverse...</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">After getting established below the seam, I was able to fiddle in a small red C3 and a small off-set nut. With this adequate gear luring me on, I launched up the thin seam, getting hooks in the constrictions and then swinging into verglas as the crack bottomed out. Close to the top with my monopoint torqued in the crack I fought for a hook in the thin verglas when suddenly I was off!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxlzJTH67H21yIkE9FgWokYAa-FWVtjV4_9J6RkCHi4Tbd0koPmE0lKSoi1PmJt3BvY3p1wrl7K1roBfGLcr8bAAvs7sAh_R2C2VCRZSWsbg-RWq7wEW0pQ524If5vXF42neeACm2OKfM/s400/P1010153.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553567333481379922" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><i>About to launch up the crack next to the unusable ice...</i></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">It seems that all mixed climbing falls are violent and mostly upside down and this one was no different as I slammed ass first into the slab below. With the confidence that the nut was good I jumped back on and fired the crack to the next stance and then continued past more wobbly ice and drytooling which led to a wonderful strip of body-width vertical ice and the top. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXGTC4SvNnga3CmY_kcXyKTO8UvrxGySJGa4Bc8Ue2ygkb7i-gXpJrq8iW8wL5jgAZpOemJJox97WwbNrQILkxsHF06c9Bnp-8_BptfKaB0uD5zl0qGpGLZrN4RtyptJ64s7Cl5yQmIEmK/s400/P1010155.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553581017975956834" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); ">Through the crack and on to more drytooling around sketchy ice...</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">It was super cool to repeat this line. Here in the northeast there are a handful of those ephemeral routes which seldom come in and are must do's when they do appear. Pump and Dump is for sure one of them. The gear was where you needed it and the climbing challenging and exciting. Despite not getting it totally clean I am psyched to have had the opportunity to get up such a rare line!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I hope everyone is having a great season so far! Conditions are sick right now!</div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE_05C6ZRH8WpD_fd8z2imIubkO5d0LAEjZao0e7ldoF7knsPnmQnNZSH-l2AkCpw4xnH0OTiwbB4sV8CTh48Na_s0Tv2ot_BwXqlwNtfKtFr0FlrTqS-DJoKHhM8HjBGlgekRgQCVNtGI/s1600/P1010157.JPG"></a>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-74563671379787396622010-12-20T09:47:00.000-08:002010-12-20T06:52:24.409-08:00Shenanigans and a New Route!<div style="text-align: left;">Recently I had an interesting conversation with my friend <a href="http://cathedralstyle.blogspot.com/">Bayard Russell</a> about getting "shut down". It was our second day out after spending all of the previous day on Cannon scratching around in vain to try and get up a hopelessly out of shape Omega. "Why do we always go after these type of lines," I wondered aloud. "These type of lines..." You know, the ones that seem barely there; that lure us in with tantalizing hangers, steep drytooling, and a low probability of success. These are the lines that get us psyched though and part of the deal is that many times things just don't click.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmXpAgiJ3ufxwNBV3stsdRcmjKZDqAxL_gyrjXQsZk24T2O2GQcTByzrQTbKCyCMmbpCrApjUDdjtBPeeBPQ1PKCCER-R2E7pF8ZgJqEOd4sDVCEn2iAObz9czZEU869jyyELJUxfQNLjs/s400/southface.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5552182110746471810" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><i>The South Face of Frankenstein with the arrow pointing to "Pole Dance"</i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>This past Sunday after our frustrating fiasco on Cannon, Bayard, <a href="http://mahoneyalpineadventures.com/">Kevin Mahoney</a> and I found ourselves gearing up beneath another one of those tantalizing lines on the south facing upper tier of Frankenstein Cliffs. Kevin had a short chunk of time for the day and suggested a formula which had led us to this prospective line.</div><div><br /></div><div>1. Difficulty (Is is gnarly enough?)</div><div>2. What is the probability of success?</div><div>3. Does it form often?</div><div>4. Sketchiness</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLUsoRe17g0LQOXsYn37m1FJs2a6xv7WuurE9ydruvBkXZyrEsqKTSTOYJ8TlfVjzVL05tRipjNkRcmyK_77sR7SPUxMm9htK0DijvPFUg0gmmFapNHVvPcHZYC0fKyVHMP9WlhC58aQN/s400/routephoto.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5552177064597681938" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); "><i>The line...</i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>As we racked up the sun beat down unnervingly hard on the ice above. Kevin walked away for a moment to shoot a few photos and suddenly yelled "watch out!" as a huge hanger cut loose above. Bayard jumped clear and I tucked behind a large maple tree. Our gear, including Kevin's wife Claire's $800 camera, took a beating and was strewn down into the talus below us. After picking up our gear and moving to a safer spot we considered our options.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyr3k3OPTJZ2JEqFVsin4Pviahy5sPCB8N6Sr70Q5uVE_xyLFlrdIu9aPetgt-8-K6vZa3HlEwF78MLDqddiq1MpBr_ow6XBb18UCV9otlVoZ1x5eeFfW_FTISLesB9Zf6qb9tt9jQAEAP/s400/P1010102.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5552774616640700482" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><i>Kevin and his broken glasses after the ice fall...</i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Kevin soloed up the short ice pitch and found a safe belay on the far right side of the ledge. Once Bayard and I got to the belay we peered up at the inspiring yellow torpedo of ice hanging from the roof above us. A steady stream of water dripped from the icicle as the sun continued to beat down. Frightened by our earlier experience we rapped to the ground. In the course of that the rope got stuck necessitating Bayard to solo up and free it. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7zXeKKdAatPPGjCfwcS-Z8_l11zwcEcXd34mqadoflIV3DDwFFqRAInv-Spj6p0VdS4OcHBgRx7V3w81blnRLOCumQNyx5Us6ZtPHb1BZYVee2o8VvaGwtD5j4E7ebkzqvAlgtoWblBnJ/s400/P1010110.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5552773945138936786" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><i>Bayard following the steep ice above the roof...</i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>For the next hour and a half we hemmed and hawed for the as line we had come to climb moved slightly more into the shade. After taking a short walk to verify that everything else was getting just as sun beaten we convinced ourselves to give the line another shot. I grabbed the rack and ropes and soloed up to the belay before we changed our minds.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0P07ZQVDVdtg_FSiuF1248xkcyOc8cwjRDj9jLTtjiOisVHdOkghQK-wMyJjS66lUXptL5xkMuCLGT__iY7WXLQdtOjXsa8IuTBu9UyZ9mEvEAD64ihb1LrcMvRlsZ63WgbOYDa8ogMGa/s400/P1010691.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5552773667854463794" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>Myself following the crux</i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i><br /></i></span></div><div>Kevin took the lead and fired the rest of the pitch past super fun climbing on thin smears to an iced up crack with tricky gear and then onto a free hanging icicle which led to a steep finish on plastic WI 5. </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dykFWJIKTvUJNtuvbAs4DRyLCUmVw04piLlvO4ztVltki6Hpib2VcBmRbzD3mRtHSq96kqINUx9jx--Nw7NzQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3333FF;">Bayard following the crux...</span></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div>It felt good to get something done and especially good to put up a new line at Frankenstein. Kevin decided on <i>Pole Dance </i>(NEI 5) for the name and grade after the delicate climbing on the narrow ice pillar and the other similarly themed route names on the upper tier. </div><div><br /></div><div>We had broke through the shenanigans!</div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-36757014146701248612010-10-27T10:28:00.000-07:002010-11-17T18:57:52.414-08:00Fall and the new Dacks Project<div style="text-align: left;">Wow! It's been waaay to long since I last posted on here. Pakistan was absolutely incredible despite lots of heavy rain which made it pretty difficult to get much. Look for my film about the trip soon on Outdoor Research's <a href="http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/">Verticulture</a> site. Upon returning back to Vermont it was quickly apparent that expedition travel does little for keeping you in top rock climbing shape. I've been spending extra hours in the gym trying to get back in shape for my projects here in New England and for our upcoming trip to the Red!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-H-AwGzr59myDbdObo25kcONXgQKdAlh_kjJI0Zote0vuErPKEC4JHcY5EGDzYwvXyECgrfd1-h6-JaX57TNg0n70Pt6wbUXjdVqFWFsE0sOc1T2s7J9elOsm4k4I4XZxGWJE3kyolCjZ/s400/IMG_4794.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5533303310355015826" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><i>Moss Cliff</i></span></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Most of my weekends this fall have been spent at the inspirational Moss Cliff in the Adirondacks. Moss Cliff is literally covered in amazing splitters from barely-there tips seams to one of the raddest off-width routes in the northeast. The cliff forms an enormous right angle and the right side is one of the most impressive single walls that I've seen anywhere. </div><div><br /></div><div>Referred to as the "Aid Wall" in the guidebook, my friend and fellow Vermonter Peter Kamitses has ticked off the first free ascents of two of the 3 aid lines on this sweeping overhang of a wall. The third and as of yet unfreed line is named Pan Am and may just be the hardest of them all!</div><div><br /></div><div>The route starts off with a beautiful 35' spitter 5.10 corner which leads to a nice pedestal belay ledge. From there the route gets a whole lot nastier. An extremely technical V6/7 boulder problem complete with thin and hard to place gear leads to sustained 5.12+ climbing up the increasingly steep wall until you encounter the heartbreaking crux. This is a Red River Gorge'esque route with additional Rumney style boulder problems at the start and finish. I've been logging big hours building up my fitness for this beast!</div><div><br /></div><div>I'm headed over this weekend with Naomi and Peter Kamitses who is also working the line. Hopefully the conditions hold out a little for us!</div><div><br /></div><div>Here's a video I put together with my friend and fellow Outdoor Research athlete Tim Keenan. We went up to Moss to spend some time on the route several weeks ago.</div><div><br /></div><div><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/15173572" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/15173572">Dacks Dispatch</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2481028">Matt McCormick</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p></div></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-88506097677993015152010-07-08T03:18:00.000-07:002010-07-08T05:55:18.077-07:00In Pakistan!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlYSmFtbL_em4IWh49xUItELcmFb8nWzQquH8LfwdFvAE-Hq-O3rQkxqvQo-65XgN0ceOMyrH8IVSx1NDu0ao4qeunZAtPUVGlic0ccX3UIm0jrgBj6PGKqy-0rbtKESzfXn_uvQYeXKb/s1600/k7+group_MP.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 263px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlYSmFtbL_em4IWh49xUItELcmFb8nWzQquH8LfwdFvAE-Hq-O3rQkxqvQo-65XgN0ceOMyrH8IVSx1NDu0ao4qeunZAtPUVGlic0ccX3UIm0jrgBj6PGKqy-0rbtKESzfXn_uvQYeXKb/s400/k7+group_MP.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5491518161880357138" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div><br /></div><div>Right now I'm in Islamabad Pakistan along with my good friend Timmy DeRoehn. We're on our way to the Charakusa Valley. This valley is an alpine wonderland filled with infinite granite spires and alpine objectives. We have our sights set on the southwest pillar of K7 west, a 6,200m unclimbed granite spire capped with snow and ice. Tomorrow we catch a plane to Skardu along with our luggage and then it's onto Hushe and then a 2 day trek into the mountains. Our journey here has been pretty insane with us shelling out over $500 in overweight charges flying for almost 2 days!</div><div><br /></div><div>We'll be posting updates on the Outdoor Research Verticulture site here: </div><div>www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com</div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-29285716669048329722010-04-16T19:48:00.000-07:002010-04-21T03:54:36.694-07:00Team America<div style="text-align: left;">Among the plethora of scattered crags to be found in the Green Mountain State, a few in particular stand out far above all others. The 82 crag is one such outstanding crag and ranks among one of my favorite sport climbing hangs anywhere. The routes start off a large ledge accessed by a fixed rope making the crag feel exposed for Vermont and offering amazing views of the Bolton valley. Despite it's relatively small size, the crag boasts several 5 star 5.12's and now 2 5.13 pitches with the addition of Team America .13a.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimFeSihHYR4RYqZ0BnVg_xYLC5B_ZSt0I_iuJeTo-rbM5svZbAvXIdYTLNvK8WPzerubt1_xghGykn25gQIZ1pav5EniB9QcdbuopaMyMZVHerp0Nbs_C_1IYm-_APG70wNk_TMW_6g22J/s400/26367_1283865619910_1328190231_30707846_2388481_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462200306265376466" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 225px; height: 400px; " /></span> <div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>At the rest on a previous attempt (Steve Potter photo)</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div>About 4 years ago my friend Dave Vuono had bolted the right most arete of the wall and had never gotten around to trying it. The route remained un-attempted until recently when myself, Parker Weber, and John Tomb began checking it out. I quickly realized that the route would need some adjustments and began by moving the anchor to a more logical spot and than moving a couple other bolts as well. The new-routing process is by far my favorite thing to do in climbing. Figuring out beta, dealing with broken holds, equipping, and all the other work that goes into a new route makes the experience incredibly rewarding.</div><div><br /></div><div>Last Thursday I headed up to the 82 with my friend Chris for an after work mission. After a quick warm-up, I jumped on the route and dogged up it to re-figure a couple of parts. I had taped a split on my left index finger from a previous go and on my second go I fell off the last hard move of the route, slicing the pad of my right middle finger wide open! With the light fading fast and a bleeding tip I lowered and was pretty sure I was done for the day. Chris took a top-rope burn real quick and suddenly the psyche hit me and I was re-taped and climbing through the first crux of the route in the dark with my headlamp. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfT_gWAR0mXeU8hkh-2Rfg6dF9sPIJ02K05m9Vvq8CxCFiuJULOY3gtzLdPjnnBdWI1x611JRCfRVlD-U2jsgNecMqW_VjrbIz8INufKVun-aM8JF8Ew93FD4YIIJZih8PIHwUNmhRUyVp/s400/IMG_3666.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461514779850860034" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Many small crimps!</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div>Initially the new split on my right hand stung with every one of the many tiny crimps in this route but that pain quickly subsided as I got into the flow of the route and found myself at my previous high point. Pumped and greasing off the left hand sloper, I latched a small right hand edge and pasted my right foot on the dubious smear. With a quick breath to focus in on the hold I threw for the two finger side-pull and caught it. Breathing hard, I flew through the following good holds to the anchor. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwCbzJ-Zj2_8nGYvsKWgRqbV46-Avd0XWI-xLnou4LhwWgKoa5x1qYnYQdHG-hTYu7teA3QsTS6sLOGx7zkpoMoM7uooIow6RjPvgYeDAyPpDOdR2gYgiKR2AhdtV0y1BoJnVOCc76dsUn/s400/26367_1283865659911_1328190231_30707847_7123610_n-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462200498071120498" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 225px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Pretty awesome positioning!</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div>I decided to call this route Team America after the team effort that went into it with Dave initially equipping it and then Park, John, and I figuring out the beta for it. This route is totally unique in comparison to others around New England. For the 82 it's relatively long with 11 bolts and is super technical with sustained crimping through a large portion of the route. I'm psyched to have made an addition to this already amazing crag.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67ydxTVGNBKWoA-8PEo3PQyR-kDOLpSAmZ2HsvJvtwlQAJV8wYVQjn4ak-eotvTF5y3qMgye2vwC9xGJ7qrv834BjRBNcoOV5XCDO_Z1vEx3a41idz6o1QS5Iap9iJeglgm7tvmZIICvc/s400/IMG_3662.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461514556591169474" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Mummy hands</i></div></div></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-40876961812206519462010-04-12T05:43:00.000-07:002010-04-12T07:32:59.237-07:00Slideshow Wednesday Night!<div style="text-align: center;">Wednesday night I'll be giving a slideshow at <a href="http://www.plymouth.edu/">Plymouth State University</a> in Plymouth NH. Come on down if your in the area! Show starts at <b>8pm </b>in<b> Boyd Hall</b> on the PSU campus.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"> The show will give a glimpse of some of the northeast's strongest climbers getting after it on mixed, ice and rock terrain. There will be a amazing raffle with tons of cool swag including a 60m <a href="http://www.sterlingrope.com/">Sterling rope</a> and other gear! All proceeds benefit the <a href="http://www.kismetrockfoundation.org/">Kismet Rock Foundation</a>. This is an awesome non-profit that several of my friends are involved with. Kismet creates opportunities for economically-disadvantaged children to experience all the amazing experiences rock climbing has to offer in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF__WP1vO5QKIKFNoKPjFTUxliDt5Yx_2fW3xsArfQGxfBXkZgxXu2eaG-xkbDU-o1yo5lik28wpX2Ntwv2Ikd0i80AaVBrePPFrvwxzt3H_GsVJRwhuya_vp-vRkn7Cf2LgITaUbQ9z0u/s400/revival2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5459256654969117458" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px; " /></span></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-72855148319488301302010-04-01T07:53:00.000-07:002010-04-01T09:28:24.531-07:00ResultsBrian Bittner is a super strong climber from Burlington Vermont who, as a member of the 5.10 Athlete Team, has for many years focused solely on bouldering and indoor competition. This fall with a trip to the Red River Gorge to get him psyched, Brian started diversifying his climbing with some sport climbing and expressed an interest in started to train with me. Six months later Brian sent his V11 project and his hardest sport route yet Dodge the Lemons (.13c) both in the span of 3 days. He is crushing!<div><br /></div><div>Brian wrote a short piece below on his thoughts about the training we've been doing and his recent sends. Check it out!</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" border-collapse: collapse; font-family:arial, sans-serif;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">"Over the past few months I have been training closely under Matt McCormick's supervision. I have been cycling in and out of strength, power, power endurance and endurance training. I have seen improvements in all aspects of my climbing, not just in how I feel, but also in tangible results, in the past two months I climbed my hardest boulder problems (Diesel Dreams V11 and Fred's Roof V11) and also my hardest redpoint (Dodge the Lemons 5.13c), not to mention flash and redpoint bests. These results are especially refreshing as I have been climbing for close to 12 years. During the past few years I felt I had reached a plateau, I am now confident I have broken through that plateau. With my new training plan I have no doubt I will continue to improve to levels I had once dreamed of. If Matt's own climbing successes are not enough, his ever growing wealth of knowledge, his openness to disucss new ideas, and his willingness to hear your wishes and concerns make it an easy choice only few would not benefit from."</span></i></span></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-15355996793283799872010-03-29T05:52:00.000-07:002010-03-29T06:51:50.696-07:00ToleranceI regularly read a variety of training blogs to gather new ideas and learn what others are doing to get more fit for climbing. One of my favorite sites in Steve Bechtel's Climb Strong blog. Along with being a well accomplished climber, Steve is a American Strength and Conditioning Certified coach and runs the <a href="http://elementaltraining.com/">Elemental Gym</a> in Lander Wyoming. Steve combines his education and deep understanding of exercise science with an intimate knowledge of climbing to write some thoughtful and effective pieces on training. Check out his site <a href="http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/">here</a><div><br /></div><div>In his latest column, Steve talks about the concept of "Tolerance." For many years since training texts had referred to "power endurance." Recently myself and others have used the term anaerobic endurance which seems more accurate to me but still not clear. "Power Endurance" to me, is an oxymoron. Power and endurance couldn't be more of a dichtomy. I like to use the analogy of the marathon runner and the sprinter to frame this idea. The marathon runner is training for a extremely long and sustained performance effort while the sprinter is training for seconds of maximal intensity performance. </div><div><br /></div><div>Steve says that he was turned onto the term tolerance by a spanish trainer/coach who used the term to define the ability to climb through fatigue for sustained periods on a climb. To me this terms sums it up perfectly. Most routes that are difficult for us come down to being able to sustain a high level of strength and power for several moves through crux or multiple cruxes on a route. </div><div><br /></div><div>Lately I've dealt with this on a long term nemesis in Rumney. The crux of this route is only about 12 moves long but by the 7th move I'm feeling gassed and mentally I find it challenging to push through that. Training tolerance will not only physically prepare yourself for that sustained crux climbing, it will also prepare you mentally to climb through the fatigue. Check out some of the exercises we've been doing lately <a href="http://mattmccormickclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/03/training-anaerobic-power-endurance.html">here</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'd be psyched to hear what others are doing to train tolerance and what they think about this concept!</div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2807102131401885255.post-81549427831454583392010-03-24T11:41:00.000-07:002010-03-24T12:02:27.769-07:00Spring Has Arrived!<div style="text-align: left;">New England received some amazing weather last week and I took advantage, heading over to Rumney for some sport climbing. Even after a winter of training hard in the gym it takes a day or so to get back into the swing of climbing on real rock. It was a beautiful weekend and people were sending left and right! I was psyched to send Suburban .13a on Sunday and am now psyched to work on the extension, Urban Surfer .13d. Probably heading back this weekend. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Here are some pics from the weekend!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxgLn4CdlDDqL4mr6gAyzuLmjHpDJuL8hovB3sUxa6hlMI9CplieO85qg-VQriS47geyi_OQMZSuUwswVpSY5ACgzw4GxuYRoeCjbDTkkhWNNJYqQxs_XbGX_5lKpR8ftsMJwQtkzMGWMV/s1600/IMG_3312.JPG"></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSR19jQowb2qFrqZ99gjRdDHBsbuOpwtX5yuOnfX_YfYZCH0yA1OondaTsyEMfEMeGCeG81FPuppmcvWDgiZW9aiG_JJJLUrQCT7_FWDGvqExJ2iM9bg1m-3vNDNUZnHvwt-r_1aZAGSkN/s1600/IMG_3306.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSR19jQowb2qFrqZ99gjRdDHBsbuOpwtX5yuOnfX_YfYZCH0yA1OondaTsyEMfEMeGCeG81FPuppmcvWDgiZW9aiG_JJJLUrQCT7_FWDGvqExJ2iM9bg1m-3vNDNUZnHvwt-r_1aZAGSkN/s400/IMG_3306.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452275894019291554" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Alex at the top of Concrete Jungle .13b</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2mmE5QjNzJTf3OE0_iTgPYbUn6OWfJ3b21MV0s9Sp4NdHoZhdSWVSyHKdjGO1mATuBavcv5JWSlPSsw_s2C07FlMxReOJnLyU0LvqjrvRvTad7Z7I4barbudpJRVcHJ4QLjh5HCj4HIIT/s1600/IMG_3302.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2mmE5QjNzJTf3OE0_iTgPYbUn6OWfJ3b21MV0s9Sp4NdHoZhdSWVSyHKdjGO1mATuBavcv5JWSlPSsw_s2C07FlMxReOJnLyU0LvqjrvRvTad7Z7I4barbudpJRVcHJ4QLjh5HCj4HIIT/s400/IMG_3302.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452274391997570786" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Brian shoeing up for a 2nd try send of Venus in a Halfshell .12c</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLXiMYAZKtcLyf42pL06qAjXQCXm6_Yfhk6CQYVEOrKX03HwvT_Ud4Keuh3Ws_78dIqBBYJd6HUj6XbQG2ApbHLkRF5hex-H9HIxRxJyVqRvu5LWxH_WwnPaIK7YfHdnRgMhgGWFuh8LPp/s1600/IMG_3298.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLXiMYAZKtcLyf42pL06qAjXQCXm6_Yfhk6CQYVEOrKX03HwvT_Ud4Keuh3Ws_78dIqBBYJd6HUj6XbQG2ApbHLkRF5hex-H9HIxRxJyVqRvu5LWxH_WwnPaIK7YfHdnRgMhgGWFuh8LPp/s400/IMG_3298.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452273804429558226" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Janet, Freddie, and Tagger!</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx0ZjwAvFZ0RadxIHYomKcq6L8RMN38aOoDa2BJlkC4fPDsV7rAjf6O9XQtG3JxVQzCc5ZINyEY3acC23HRy67tYs3RatRfdEvtyynarVP_miUtrqsesyfC_zgQSO8fC4jse4ridEuTLaO/s1600/IMG_3297.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx0ZjwAvFZ0RadxIHYomKcq6L8RMN38aOoDa2BJlkC4fPDsV7rAjf6O9XQtG3JxVQzCc5ZINyEY3acC23HRy67tYs3RatRfdEvtyynarVP_miUtrqsesyfC_zgQSO8fC4jse4ridEuTLaO/s400/IMG_3297.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452273394924640130" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Brian and Leah</i></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxgLn4CdlDDqL4mr6gAyzuLmjHpDJuL8hovB3sUxa6hlMI9CplieO85qg-VQriS47geyi_OQMZSuUwswVpSY5ACgzw4GxuYRoeCjbDTkkhWNNJYqQxs_XbGX_5lKpR8ftsMJwQtkzMGWMV/s400/IMG_3312.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5452276211582416626" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Michael Penn sending China Beach .14b</i></div></div>Matt McCormickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15996687114643201094noreply@blogger.com0