Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Feeling the power building

For the past month or so I've been working on a new route at the Spider's Web in the Adirondacks. The line is one of the most difficult and inspiring lines I have ever tried and what's more, it's all on gear! I worked the route on toprope for about 6 days before starting to go for it on lead. I'm yet to link it on top-rope and have now fallen from the crux at the top about a dozen times! A couple of weeks ago I decided to take some time away and try and build up a little more fitness to bring to it. After two weeks of training I am feeling stronger than ever and am drooling and the cool temps forecasted for later this week!

I set a long traverse in the gym (about 50 moves) and wired that in for training as well as hitting the campus board hard. I've also been making after-work forays up to the 82 crag in Bolton to get on the amazing sport routes up there and train. Last night I surprised myself by sending Little Red Hen (12d) on pretty much my second go! I had briefly gotten on it last week but bailed right away due to burning skin. So psyched to be feeling strong and ready to give it hard on the project! Yeeaah!

Thursday, August 6, 2009


I've gone ahead and set up this site as a venue to discuss training for climbing. Training as it applies to the sport of climbing is still a relatively unwritten about and unresearched subject. In other sports, volumes abound on training techniques, injury prevention, and diet. Perhaps much of this has to do with the culture of climbers. Many suggest that the "best training for climbing is climbing" or the classic "I train with 12 ounce curls." This seems to be changing with the publication of more books on the subject, the creation of gyms like Mountain Athlete and even a national study on climbing injury.

Having been at this sport for the past dozen or so years, I've realized that the average climber knows little to nothing about effective principles of training. Sure, people are aware of things like campusing, doing laps, and even the occasional H.I.T. strip workout, but how to put it all together seems to be lacking.

I would love to have the opportunity to work with you on your climbing goals and set up a training program that fits your needs. This past winter I took the knowledge I have gained from years of research on the subject and a degree in Physical Education, and designed a program for myself. During my winter trip to Spain I doubled the number of 5.13's that I had done in the past sending 5 routes of that grade up to .13c.

Whether you are a beginner looking to improve your technique or a experienced climber looking to break through a plateau, some focused training might be your ticket to success. Please contact me either through this blog or at matty.mccormick@gmail.com. I'll send you a questionnaire on your goals and set up a time to meet with you in person if possible. From there we'll set up a plan for you to follow to work toward your goals. I guarantee that you'll see results!